Cherie, Kris, Des and I made our “annual” girl’s trip to NOLA this year. Annual is in quotes because we missed two years since we first went to Atlanta in 2019. We missed 2020 (naturally) and last year, 2024, because there were a couple of them with European trips during the fall. But we are back again and this time we are heading south!
Since Cherie was still living in Bozeman, we flew separately to meet her at the Louis Armstrong airport in NOLA. She arrived before we did and got herself the first beignets (and coffee) of the trip. So many beignets to follow! None of us had issues with these first flights even with the federal government shutdown and Air Traffic Controller overwork issues. That was not true on the way home.
Kris rented a car and Cherie drove us to the French Quarter where our hotel, French Market Inn, was located. It was pretty chaotic driving with narrow roads and pedestrians everywhere, but we got there. The motel was seriously cute and very convenient. We then walked along the Mississippi riverfront which was across the parking lot and found the love wins gate (and a couple locking a padlock!) and walked around our basic neighborhood. We ended up eating a tasty dinner at Cafe Maspero on Decatur Street and I had my first shrimp of the trip. Des got a cheeseburger of all things and Kris had a veggie muffuletta (a NOLA special). Cherie got red beans and rice to start our NOLA foodie adventure. We ended up walking the river again to the Langles Bridge listening to the street performers and seeing the lights. It was pretty warm and humid but Des survived. We stopped at Cafe Beignet for desserts naturally. The beignets were good! We went back to Cherie and my room to plan out the next day, and then Des and Kris walked more while Cherie and I turned in. I had trouble walking the extremely uneven sidewalks with my knee brace. Boo.
Saturday morning we were up early (although Kris and Des went for an earlier walk) to go on a Bayou Tours pontoon boat for a swamp tour. This was my “required” ask. It was a drive out to Lafitte, La and Cherie was again a trouper doing the driving. We saw several alligators, birds and a deer. Our guide had a great accent and I would find myself listening to his voice but not always his words! The day was a little cooler but being on the boat in the wind of our movement made it quite bearable. We were shocked to learn that guides use marshmallows plopped into the water as bait to attract the gators. We didn’t do that- they were just there basking or swimming around as is. Then we had a little funny – our guide informed us that NOLA is not on the Gulf of Mexico but 100 miles upstream. Then he mockingly “fixed” his error to the Gulf of America. Snicker…
We stopped at Joe’s Cafe on the way back for coffee and glazed beignets (better than the powdered sugar ones!) and then made our way to the World War 2 museum. It was huge! We split up since we have varying speeds when going through a museum and ended up spending almost three hours there. We had to wait for Des at closing because she was quite lost! We had all gotten lost at some point (Cherie and I stayed together) because there were three levels in four buildings. It was overwhelming to say the least! We then headed back to the hotel and walked to dinner. We ate at the Chartres House where we watched two parades go right past us. The second was a wedding parade and I still giggle thinking of the drunk grandpa at the end. He was enjoying himself immensely! Cherie got a crawfish etouffee’ that was quite icky for all of us, but had other things to eat, luckily! Of course we stopped at Cafe Beignet for dessert on the way back to the hotel, and this time got a chocolate strawberry trio. They also tried a frozen Hurricane but were not overly impressed. We also found Fleur D’ Orleans where we spent some time talking to a woman from Elk Grove who had traveled the world and ended up in New Orleans! We decided we’d visit her later for some earrings.
Finally we went back to room 235, and planned the next day- The Natchez paddle wheel boat and brunch! Then Kris and Des went to Bourbon Street for the dancing, while Cherie and I hunkered down. Became a pattern! They talked while walking, we talked while lying down!
We ate breakfast at…Cafe Beignet…and did not buy any beignets. So proud of ourselves! Then a guy with a baby in a carrier and toddler, offered us his last two beignets so we HAD to eat those. He had doused the baby’s head with powdered sugar! We walked to an open market that Kris and Des had found earlier that morning which was rather cool, and then made our way to the Natchez. It is a very pretty paddlewheel boat with atrocious organ “music” calling us to board. I was a little disappointed that we did not have a window seat for brunch, but it turned out that we didn’t move while eating! It was a very good brunch, quite tasty, and lots of choices. They all had multiple servings of creamed spinach (Blech), and we also had a lot of smoked salmon and cinnamon rolls. Then we took off up the Mississippi River. NOLA is on Algiers Point so we got quite a review of the local history as we passed by there. We also saw the giant Domino Sugar plant, second largest sugar processor in the world. Smelled good too! Further up river we passed a HUGE petroleum refinery. On the way back there was a good jazz band and we toured the steam engine rooms and the paddle system.
Afterwards we took a bus to City Park to see the sculpture garden and visit Cafe du Monde; this is the place that first made beignets and the chicory/coffee combo famous. Our bus was crowded and we ended up in a street parade after the Saints game so it took quite some time to get there. There were even drunk people riding horses in the impromptu parade! Craziness. The park is beautiful and the sculpture garden was fun. Finally an even pathway for me to walk on. I have to say all the uneven ground was taking a toll on my knee! Matt had warned us that Cafe du Monde was not impressive (true) but we waited in a 23 minute line after walking the sculpture garden. Oh well- had to go there as we played tourist all around town!
We walked to dinner at Creole House and had another wonderful meal – I had fried shrimp again. Cherie ate very good fish, Kris had a salad and Des had another cheeseburger. The waiter was a kick sassing Des as much as she sassed him. I think he might have won that battle. Then we walked back to the hotel via Bourbon street before it got too dark. So much smoking in NOLA and pot (it isn’t legal but lots of it) so we made a quick trip of it. Des and Kris went back later for more of the street life!
Monday started off with the most amazing breakfast at a James Beard award winning place – Brennans. So fancy! The waitstaff were friendly and helpful. We started with a table cinnamon roll and went uphill from there! I had a mushroom black truffle omelet and bacon that was very….i don’t even have a word for it!
After Brennans we took a trolley up Saint Charles Place to see a catholic cemetery and the Garden District houses. The trolley was quite busy but we made it! There were so many cool, old crypts at the cemetery with dates back to the early 1800s is some places. Some family crypts were still maintained but many were falling apart. The guide on the pontoon told us a story about grandma and grandpa “popping up” during the various hurricanes so most people of any wealth do prefer to be buried in a cement lined crypt! Afterwards we walked more crooked sidewalks to the Garden District and saw so many amazing, “gingerbread” southern houses. Again some maintained well but others needing work. Most have wrought iron fencing. Pretty amazing neighborhood!
Out of space! Go find part 2!